Splendid Split

“Let us be grateful to the people who make us happy; they are the charming gardeners who make our souls blossom.” ― Marcel Proust 

I do believe the travel bug has again bitten.   In re-creating my life, I have self-gifted myself many important things for the healing and peace I have been so gratefully achieving.  This year I strived to keep flexibility.  I wanted, I needed, to be available for my Ladies, especially Katie.  And, it has proven to be a wonderful gift indeed. Working crazy hours in Sierre Leone, I have been able to go and “be” with her on the rare occasion she made it home to the U.S.  For a break this summer, we decided to meet and play.  And, oh, did we, in Croatia!

View from our living room in Split

View from our deck in Hvar

Our Dubrovnik home, right on "The Wall"!

Planning the trip also reawakened my love of trip planning and since Katie’s internet can very often be spotty at best, she trusted me to do it.   Funny, I did struggle with uncertainty at times in booking our apartment but went with my gut, and found great places.  I had used Airbnb in the past, but this trip has made me a huge fan.  The People who rent their homes, in my experience, have been great, easy, helpful, and wonderful to work with. Our hosts went out of their way for us.  In Split, even though ill, Ivana and Ante had friends take care of us, arranging transfers to and from the airport, meeting us, and showing us around.  In Hvar, the Micic family were extremely gracious and helpful, picking us up and driving us the short distance to the ferry (such a welcome gift with heavy bags in the heat), arranging boat excursions, etc.  In Dubrovnik, Dubravka and Nikola own a restaurant where we were welcomed with open arms and given a very generous discount!

Leaving on a jet plane from JFK

Flying to Croatia was a long trip, for both of us.  There are no direct flights from the US to Croatia.  For Katie, she must fly through Brussels to get anywhere as flights in and out of Sierre Leone are very restricted.  While researching flights on the internet, many independent companies “pop up” and offer their assistance.  Finding no deals to Croatia, I took one company up on its offer to help.  Mistake, big mistake.  I highly recommend never working with International Travel Network.   Without going into too lengthy a rant, it was a nightmare of mix-ups, getting yelled at and hung up on, but finally, thankfully, the tickets were valid (I was truly afraid I’d get to JFK to find them not so).  Lesson learned, it is quite simple to book my own flights, and will rely on myself from now on.

Will always love Medieval streets

Were the long flights, layovers, and exhaustion ever worth it!  Having arrived in Split hours ahead of me, Katie had a nice lay of the land by the time I arrived late on a Monday night.  Our apartment was perfectly situated right in Dioclesian’s Palace!  We roamed the cobbled streets for awhile having a glass or two of wine, and finding no restaurants serving late, thoroughly enjoyed a ham and cheese baquette from a little shop near our home.

First, of many, great meals

Waking Tuesday to brilliant sunshine and blue skies we happily headed out to simply be in Split.  Sharing a great lunch of my favorite, a caprese salad, octopus salad, and salmon pasta at Bistro No Stress, we then again simply continued our explorations of the magical Medieval streets and harbor area of Split.   After a lovely siesta we ventured over to Marcvs Marvlvs Spalatensis a lovely Library/Jazz Bar set in the 15^th Century home reputed to be the birthplace of Marko Marulic (the Dante Alighieri of Croatia).  Katie had befriended the owner while waiting for me the day before.  Tin is a consummate host who is also a published poet, and, yes, Tin’s place became our Cheers of Split. 

Following our treats of wine and cheese with Tin, we found Diocletian’s Wine House  where we shared an amazing “White Plate of Seafood”.  We quickly learned that indeed, as promised by everything I had read, the wines of Croatia are excellent.  Walking home we found live music being played in the Square right outside the main Palace area.  Simply beautiful. 

Beach #4!

Wednesday found us awaking at noon!  Donning our bathing suits, we shared brunch next door at Bistro Mazgoon.  After filling our bellies very happily with green and caprese salads, rabbit pate, and prosecco, we proceeded to spend the afternoon into early evening beach hopping by simply meandering along the coast.  Oh, the gorgeous warm Adriatic was crystal clear and every shade of blue imaginable.   Dinner was lovely at Adriatic Sushi and Oyster Bar (various rolls as well as salmon and tuna carpaccio) followed by a nightcap at Tin’s  Marcvs Marvlvs Spalatensis.

Krka National Park

Warthogs ahead!?

Snacks @ Krka

Having rented a car to explore a bit, Thursday we headed out after a quick breakfast and took the very long route to get to Krka National Park.  (We got lost).  The ride was worth it for the laughs alone.  The waterfalls, and being able to swim in them after a long, sweaty walk was so worth the wait.  Divine!   Following our frolicking, we happily indulged in a lovely cheese and charcuterie plate (Croatian ham is wonderful, a very special prosciutto) before the much shorter ride home.  Heading out for dinner meant exploring new alleyways to find a restaurant Katie had eyed on previous walks.  We found ourselves in the “Villa Rosa” of Split (a restaurant close to home frequented when the Girls were

Dinner

growing up in).  Our waitress would easily get hired at Durgin Park in Boston (where all people working must be rude and “abusive”) and she made us laugh at loud.  She loved us.  Our dinner at Dioklecijan was exactly what you would expect; good home cooked food.  This time we wanted to try the meats/sausages that Croatia is apparently known for.  And a simple salad, the kind Katie loves, literally just like the ones my Mom makes!  Walking through the palace after dinner had us being entertained by more live music and people dancing in the square, literally.  Especially a young princess whose world was a stage; that night, anyway!   Craving a sweet, we found ourselves back at Bistro Mazgoon where we shared a decadently delicious piece of white chocolate/raspberry cheesecake while savoring a lovely glass of pinot noir, each.  And, yes, finally to Tin’s Marcvs Marvlvs Spalatensis for our nightcap.

Dancing Princess.

Friday, up and out to catch the ferry to Hvar, an island about an hour away from Split.

April's Antics

“Every mighty king was once a crying baby!

Every great tree was once a tiny seed!

Every tall building was once in paper!

And so I dream my dream!” she yelled.

Eunice Akoth

March didn’t go out as a lamb.  But thankfully, with the longer days, April did, slowly, turn into a lovely start to spring.  It’s amazing how you could literally see it in people’s faces.  Coming out again after a too-long winter’s hibernation. 

At Simon Pearce

I was so fortunate, and grateful, to kick off spring in Vermont.  Albeit, not the Green Mountain State’s most beautiful season, it was wonderful to relax, and “be” with one of my favorite people.  Katie, came back from Sierra Leone for rest/work for a few weeks, and we escaped up to one of our favorite places.  Funny, I hadn’t been to Woodstock for three years, and found myself there twice in a month.  No complaints!   We literally “vege’d out” catching up on a whole season of “Downton Abbey” to emerge only for dinner (since we had no food left!).  It was a lovely dinner at Melaza Bistra (http://www.melazabistro.com).  Loving our long lazy lunch at Long Trail Ale, and really cherishing another lunch at one of my favorites, anywhere in the world, Simon Pearce, we both realized that as much as we love Woodstock, Vermont, we couldn’t live there.  Guess we are more citified than we thought.

Coming back to my new home town, I jumped in as usual with both feet.   The Central Park Conservancy treated volunteers to a very lovely reception at  “my” Boathouse.  It was a special evening with classmates of my training class who have become friends (amongst many others).

Lunch time entertainment

Once again getting lost on the internet, reading one thing, leading to another, I found out about a small travel show, called New York TravFest.  Speakers and groups I had heard before where speaking, so I was very interested.  Jumping in on the 11^th hour, I did what I often do when I see events I want to attend; but not necessary pay for (need to be prudent!); I offered my assistance by volunteering.  A lady reached out, and I worked quite hard the week before the festival.  It was excellent at yet more cool spaces in my city.  I got to go/work at an event at the New York Times building in Midtown, extremely interesting and lovely.  The opening night party was at the very cool Mundo Restaurant in the Paper Factory Hotel in Brooklyn.  Saturday I spent at on the West side at 150 W 83.  And, finally, Sunday I spent the day in the Penthouse Suite with Meet Plan Go at the Hosteling International on the Upper West Side.  I will stay in hostels in a heartbeat if they are like this one.  (And this adventure may just turn into another of those part-time gigs I’m hoping to fill my time with!)

Within a few days of that great Festival, I found myself behind the scenes at the David Koch Theatre at Lincoln Center.  (The same theatre where I saw the lovely Sarah dance with the Boston Ballet last spring.)  The Women in the Worlds Summit was a mouth-dropping, inspiring few days of listening to some of the most amazing women in this country speak (“Hilary”, Barbara Streisand, Katie Couric, Angelina Jolie, Ashley Judd, Robin Wright with the real US Ambassador to the UN.  I missed Mary Robinson (former President of Ireland), Meryl Streep, Helen Mirren, Diane von Furstenberg. 

More spectacular were some of the non-famous women who came to speak.  A young Lady who left no dry eye in the theatre and earned one of the longest standing ovations I have ever experienced after performing a poem she wrote;   Eunice Akoth is a 12 year old sixth grade student at Kiberia School for Girls.  She came to the US with Kennedy and Jessica Odede.  From the program: “Kennedy is one of Africa’s best-known community organizers and social entrepreneurs…He started the Shining Hope for Communities (SHOFCO) movement…”  One of the many things Kennedy has done is open a school for girls in his hometown, Kiberia, a district of Nairobi, Kenya, the largest urban slum in Africa.  Again from the program about: “Born in the slums of Nairobi…her parents were unable to pay school fees, but at the age of 6, Eunice was accepted into the first class of students at KSG and quickly established herself as a leader.  Today, she is a confident girl who, despite her circumstances, believes she is made for greatness.  She dreams of becoming a famous and influential journalist so she can travel the word and report on the circumstances of girls.  She is also determined to come back to Kiberia so she can help her community.  She believes it is her duty to change the world.”   Watch for her.

Sugar and Plumm

Of course, amongst all of these networking/volunteer adventures, I played and kept up with friends.  Some of these new friends have come directly from amazing exploits in my volunteer world.  Alas, I have lost one such great Lady to Portland, Oregon.  But, of course, I wholeheartedly support Ladies who go for their dreams.  Before she left we had a Saturday night on the Town, literally.  Meeting down in the Lower East Side, we found a wonderful sushi place with an incredible happy hour and loved our time at Zest.  Popping to the UWS for dessert we delighted in a decadent Milkshake for grownups at Sugar and Plumm.  Farewell, Dear Friend.  We will meet again.  (I have never been to Portland, Oregon!)

my new city.

Playing in my Park (Central) with Family!

April ended on a lovely note with very special visitors from home.  My Cousin and her family came down to play over the Kiddos' vacation, and I got to play with them for a day!  Showing them my lovely new home, we then ventured to my Central Park but first stopped at Laduree (www.laduree.com) a fancy macaron shop close to home that my cousin’s Daughter had done a school project on!  Taking them to my Sojourn for a light dinner was a delightful end to a special day.

On the Highline

The Standard West's Patio

The next day, a very Dear Friend and Husband came to play on the way to New Jersey.  We hit the ground running, after showing them my new home, and making our way Downtown near the new World Trade Center to find their hotel.  Starting at O’Hara’s close to their hotel, we had a perfect pub lunch.  We then meandered along the Highline, stopping for fun Margarita’s at the Standard West’s Patio.  Lovely.  Wanting another bite to eat before seeing a play, we stayed in the Meatpacking ‘hood and went over to Catch for some “munchies.”  If that weren’t enough, we did go to a show, a series of short plays about Central Park (a benefit of being a Greeter Guide, we were invited as guests).  It was okay.     

My work continues with Initiate Care.  I am getting more comfortable and really enjoy the teaching.  My “whipper-snapper” Boss treated us to a lovely Team dinner at a wonderful restaurant, Decoy.  Thanks, yet again, BM.  (He has managed to get some of the best restaurants/hotels in the city as clients.  Which I love!)  Another day we taught at Zuma,((http://www.zumarestaurant.com/zuma-landing/new-york/en/welcome) where upon we were treated to a Chef’s tasting lunch following.  What a true treat!  Spring is the crunch season for camps needing their counselors to get CPR certified, so that should (and did) help keep me busy!

The final Sunday of month had me sharing in a lovley brunch with 4^th U Vday Ladies, and a dear Philosophy friend, at City Winery.  Following that we meandered further into the Village (still happy saying that) to Café Vivaldi to listen to Emir Gamsizoglu again.  He performed an amazing afternoon concert with Angela Dinkelman, soprano.  “Breakfast in Tiffany’s” was a true multi-collaboration of Schubertiades music interspersed with scenes of that beloved classic movie.  There was not a dry eye in the house as Angela ended the show with Henry Mancini’s  “Moon River.”

April ended on a beautiful note as I took full advantage of a Greeter  Eric and Gerry of the Horticulture team guided us through an area that I manage to get lost in most other visits.  It is so hard to imagine you are in the heart of the largest cities in the world here.  So very, very blessed and grateful.

Guide Wild Flower Tour through the Ramble of my beloved Central Park.

Laundry Laments

“A picture is worth a thousand words..”

Frederick R. Barnard (perhaps!)

Laundry has actually been a chore I have never minded.  You can be doing so many other things while doing it.  (Back to the days of where life was a long list of multi-tasking..)  Now there has been much talk over the years of all the things I have ruined as a laundress.  But, whatever, I did a lovely job 85% of the time.  And, you know what they say ”You don’t like it?  Do it yourself!”

Dennisport beach

without the Tower..

 The first time I ever used a laundry-mat was the summer of ’76.  My first summer on Cape Cod without parents!  (A lovely right of passage for many of us from the Boston area.  Working, usually waitressing, and playing on the Cape.)  Since I lived at home and commuted to college, it was my first foray into taking care of myself.  I lived in a girls’ animal house.  And, it was one of the best summers of my life.  But, the laundry-mat next to the Tastee Tower of Pizza on Lower Country in Dennisport may be why I have had a life long aversion to public laundry-mats…

Wedding site..

The next public laundrymat I had to use was in my apartment building in Del Rio, Texas.  Oh, dear, so much could be written about Del Rio.  I was oh so young, a newly married bride of a not so officer and gentleman.  I worked very hard at being a good officer’s wife, as they told us we were supposed to at the Officer’s Wive’s Club luncheon given to us before our weddings at the infamous chapel on Graduation Week.  I think we all know how that turned out…

So, now many years later, rebuilding my life, yet again, and living in my city of dreams, New York, I now have no personal washer and dryer.  Streeteasy has a cute add campaign all over the MTA, NYC’s trains and buses, about apartments and what it means to have made it home-wise in the Big Apple.  Moving into the Hx3, I was consoled by the fact that there was a laundry room in the basement.  So, I simply took the elevator to the basement, and was still able to get a lot of other stuff “done” while doing laundry.

Last December having been told I must move, I quickly learned that in this Metropolis, walk-up buildings have no laundry facilities.  Elevator buildings do.  I have absolutely no idea why.  So, when I found my beautiful new home on Craigslist, it was immediately apparent there was no laundry onsite.  One reason I didn’t take a one bedroom; really didn’t want to traipse 3-4 flights with bags, etc.  (And believe it or not my tiny studio has more closet space than the one-bedrooms.) 

Why I took my new home, and love it!

It took me a month before I visited the laundry-mat two doors down.  What the hell was I afraid of?   I had sold, given and thrown away almost every “thing” I loved just over a year ago.  I moved to one of the biggest cities in the world, alone, and have worked very hard at re-building my life.  It’s been amazing..  Still, my “thing” about laundry-mats hadn’t abated.  Having no choice as I was running out of clean undies, I went two doors down.  And, yes, it truly was painless, actually easier than in my last building as I had just a few steps between the two buildings to conquer, and I still could come home and do “stuff” as things were washing, then drying.

Two weeks ago, I happily wandered over to my laundry-mat to   Dryers not available”.  A neighborhood man had taken it upon himself to be the messenger.  The building had a gas leak.  (There have been too many of those in this city lately.  Some resulting in homes and lives lost.  Now it is not being taken lightly.)  So, it would be a while before the building had gas again. The man explained he simply had things hanging all over his apartment.  So, with memories of Mom hanging out our clothes on two clotheslines on Houston Ave, I thought, “O.K.  I can do this.”
see a big sign.. ”Washing only.

Walking home later that week, there was a new big sign on my laundry-mat.  “Closing for a few months to renovate while the gas is being fixed.  Our sister shop around the corner is available for drop-off and pickup.  Sorry for the inconvenience.”  Oh, s…  The talk in my garden amongst my new neighbors, my new Lady Friends, was  “Where do we go?”

I accept my age..

I saw on my travels in the ‘hood a couple of blocks away, another laundry-mat.  Ok, good, not too   But now my laundry is building up again, including sheets and towels.  To digress a bit, when I moved down to NYC full-time, having given away my car, Kristi jokingly said, “Mom, now you’ll have to buy one of those rolling carts that the old ladies use to do their shopping!”  I replied, “That’ll never happen.”  Well, guess what?!  Never say never.  Off to Bed Bath and Beyond  I went to buy myself a nice little rolling cart as I didn’t want to be the old lady Santa walking the streets of Manhattan with my big bags of laundry.  My back and shoulder have made me pay enough for abusing them over the years.
bad.

Walking home from my stint in my Park  (Central) the other evening I walked by “my new” laundry-mat to check on their times.  I had one pair of clean undies left.  I had no choice.  A young guy was taping up a sign that stating there were only 4 hours a week available for “self-laundry”.  All had to be dropped off.    I asked him what had happened.  Their sister shop up in the 80’s was having gas issues.

A month's worth of laundry!

Oh, for God’s sake.  Believe me, I already do many things by hand, but everything?  So, I decided whatever, I’d treat myself.  I brought my laundry around the corner to “One Stop Do All’s” sister shop to drop my laundry off.  Later that day, I went back over to pick it up.  OMG, I am now in love and hooked.  I may never do laundry again.  Yes, it was more expensive, but, OMG.  In discussing this with my new Ladies in our garden, I was told that they even pick up and deliver!  I love NYC!