“Hope is being able to see that there is light despite all of the darkness.” Desmond Tutu
Oh, I laugh, now, when I picture my little daughter, hands on hips, making that claim over some indignity I had imposed. I promised both of my Ladies from toddler-hood, that “No, unfortunately, I can’t promise that life will be fair.” Oh, boy, never did I imagine how unfair our world could become…
Internationally, 2015 saw the largest migration of people since World War II to escape war-torn countries, political and religious persecution, and economic strife. More than 1.3 million refugees and migrants fled to Europe by sea in 2015, according to the International Organization for Migration. Many entire families simply wanted to move to a safe haven to start life anew. Unfortunately, many were lied to along the way, smugglers, etc telling people, “Go, you will be taken care of.”
Many of the countries Humans fled to were ill-prepared to greet them. And, many do/did not want them. Much of the world seems to have taken on a "nimby" (not in my back yard) or nationalist stance. Including my own, for which I was not proud....
Lesvos, an Aegean Island of Greece, is just four miles from Turkey, making it "easy" for so many escaping nightmares in their homelands to come to Europe. It has received many Refugees over the years. But, in 2015, Lesvos received 800,00 Refugees,; 211,00 in a single month; and 10,00 during a two day period in October. Even though it is the third largest of Greece's islands, it is definitely not big enough to host all these special people alone. The economic ramifications of so many needing safe shelter, Greece could ill-afford. The EU and Humanitarian groups have provided funds to help. (But that will bring us into a quagmire that I don't fully understand and infuriates me all at the same time. And, please, don't get me started on geopolitical bureaucracy and hypocrisy...)
As Europe started to take its breathe after the influx of Humans seeking shelter in 2015, an infamous “deal” was made with Turkey to try and stem the tide and control the issue. But, the Controversial EU-Turkey deal of March 2016: was described by the UK director of Amnesty International as "a dark day for the Refugee Convention, a dark day for Europe and a dark day for humanity." (From Independent) Filippo Grandi, the UN High Commissioner for Refugees, said: “I am deeply concerned about any arrangement that would involve the blanket return of anyone from one country to another without spelling out the refugee protection safeguards under international law.”
I, and much of the world, was saddened and horrified to see the pictures of precious tiny Aylan Kurdi, a Syrian toddler lying lifeless on a Turkish beach in September of 2015. That image haunted me. In March of 2017 a dear Man in my life asked friends and family to donate, in lieu of birthday gifts, to a Dutch organization that was born in part due to little Aylan’s drowning and was working on the island of Lesvos in Greece, Movement on the Ground.
After convincing MOTG that this Lady would be a great addition to their team, I spent three weeks with them in the summer of 2017. To say that experience changed, and enriched my life, in ways I never could imagine, is an understatement. (Trite but true.) In fact, I was drawn back to Lesvos more than once.
The response of many friends and family to my going back and forth to Greece was “Isn’t the Refugee Crisis over?” No, unfortunately, just because it wasn’t in mainstream media anymore in the US, it was, and is, very much still happening.
Then they’d ask: “What did you do every day?” Did we save lives? No, but I believe we helped make the lives of very special People who are in an extraordinary period of time in their lives, and in human history, kinder and gentler. Going to Lesvos I had the misconception of many, that our Villagers would be Syrian. Many were, but Residents were also from Afghanistan, Iran, Iraq, the Congo, Ethiopia, Ghana and others. A true meltng pot of cultures, religions, languages united by the same fears, and dreams and please, always hope.
The Beach on the North of Lesvos where many Folks landed.
When the influx of Humanity hit Lesvos hard in 2015, most Lesvosians were kind and generous, opening their hearts, and helping in whatever ways they could. As a matter of fact islanders were nominated for the Nobel Peace prize in 2016 for their Humanitarianism. Remember, Greece was still realing from economic hardships, and this island, like most of Greece’s many beautiful islands, depended on tourism. With the crisis, tourists stopped coming. I will say that over the years that I went, I happily and thankfully saw an influx in that industary. (Until Covid hit, of course.)
By the time I started going to Lesvos, the patience of Lesvosians was starting to wear thin in regards to the “Refugee situation.” In our orientation on Kara Tepe, MOTG’s Coordinator suggested that we not wear our id badges off CampUs. Personally, I never experienced anything but welcome. I am fully aware of how I presented: a white American Lady of certain age. The cultures of the Folks I got to meet and interact with, both Islanders and Residents of the CampUs’ have high respect for age. It was nice and appreciated.
From my first visit, I will share two instances where I witnessed a bit of this disdain of islanders to my new Friends. Both regarded taxi drivers. In the first case, I was leaving Kara Tepe to grab dinner with a friend before the Friday night Community Dance. I called a taxi, and when it came a male Resident of Kara Tepe appeared at my side with his Mother who was clearly not well. He asked if he could take this taxi to get his Mother to the hospital. I said: “Of, course!” The taxi driver said: “No, you called the taxi. It is for You I came, Not them.” I told my friend I’d meet up with her later; climbed into the front seat; motioned for the Lad to get into the back seat with his Mother. The taxi driver was not pleased. I looked him in the eye and said: “Please take me to the hospital.” As we drove, our driver warmed up. By, the time we reached the hospital, I simply said: “You are a good, kind man. Thank you. Please wait for me. I will be right out.” After I felt comfortable that the Lad and his Mother were going to be in good hands, I came outside, and my taxi was still there. By the time we reached Kara Tepe again, we were good friends. (In my mind, anyway.)
The second incident was on my last day of that 2017 visit. I was an emotional basket case. I would have stayed on Lesvos for a long time, if I could. As I left Kara Tepe, for what I thought would be my final time, another young Guy asked if he and a friend could share a cab with me into Mytillini. I had gotten to know him a bit, as he was one of “the Guys” who spent a lot of time helping MOTG, and simply being with us. He was a single Man in his twenties, one of the “Leaders” of the Community Dances. It was clear again the driver was not pleased. I ignored him, and we all got in. On that ride my young Friend, who called me Mom, (as did many of the Guys. I found it to be a term of endearment and later realized it was also one of respect) went into great detail as to how much he had loved having me on Kara Tepe because he missed his Mom so very much, and worried for her every day. Well, I could barely breathe, never mind speak when we got out and hugged goodbye.
I have been so very blessed to have met and worked with many wonderful, brave, caring Folks; the Residents of both Kara Tepe and Moria, and International Volunteers. One special Lady whom I befriended the summer of 2018 was both. Her story on Lesvos began as a Refugee, and I met her as a fellow volunteer. (I embarrassed both if us when I realized who she was as I had read about what she and her sister had done.) She is a hero. She tried to leave Lesvos a few weeks after me to go to her family in Berlin to continue her education. She was arrested at the airport. The New York Times did a heartfelt story on this lady, and her co-workers recently. Because of this situation, and others who have experienced similar ordeals, Folks on the Aegean islands are now afraid to help Humans when they land on the islands. They can and will be arrested, and their lives will become a legal nightmare, potentially spending many years in prison?
www.nytimes.com/2022/03/02/magazine/greece-migration-ngos.html.
The numbers of Humans escaping persecution of many sorts in the following years ebbed and flowed on Lesvos. By the summer of 2019, the numbers of Folks risking their lives were climbing high again. For example, on August 29, 2019, 13 dingies with over 500 Humans landed on Lesvos. In September 7712 Humans arrived. Getting reports from the Aegean Boat Reportcan be disconcerting, especially as innocent people were/are not just escaping for their lives, but too many are losing their lives. One boat capsized, in June 2019, carrying 64 people (these boats are made for 10-12 people). Seven innocents lost their lives including 2 little girls. Two young children lost their Mom, leaving them as orphans. A week later, another 12 people drowned, including children who were in a fiberglass boat carrying 43 people, none in life jackets.
Many Folks get stuck on the Aegean Islands for years, some moved on in a few months. In all my visits to Lesvos, I could never figure that out. There were stamps, black ones, red ones. A crazy lottery. In 2019, a new government was elected, a very right wing one. With my experience of what was happening in my own U.S. of A, I knew that was not going to make it easier for our Friends. I finally began to understand what Fascism means. “Form of far right-wing, authoritarian ultra-nationalism characterized by dictatorial power, forcible suppression of opposition, and strong regimentation of society and of the economy which came to prominence in early 20th-century Europe.” (Wikipedia).
In February of 2020, I went once again to my now beloved Lesvos to volunteer on Kara Tepe and Moria with MOTG for two months. When I left the US, there was a lot of talk about a virus that was becoming problematic around the world. The U.S. Administration was saying “nothing to worry about.” March 11 the WHO declared this virus, Covid 19, to be a global pandemic. The president declared U.S. borders to be shut within days, creating chaos, as he did so well. It simply wasn’t fair to my family to have them worry about me. So, I came home to the city that never sleeps. New York City was shuttered by the time I arrived. (flying through Dubai?! to get there)
The two weeks I did have on that visit were also chaotic. Kara Tepe had the allotted amount of Folks living there, around 1400. Moria had the highest number I had seen, 20,000. It was extraordinary to see what that meant as the summer before had about 12,000. I knew there had been protests happening both by native Residents of the island and by non-native Residents (Refugees). A general strike was called for the day I was scheduled to arrive. Both of these things have happened in the past, usually to no avail, although it had been a tad less peaceful that winter. Things had actually gotten quite disturbing as police were sending tear gas into crowds of peacefully demonstrating Refugees asking for better care, and/or quicker work on their asylum cases. The true tipping point for Greek Islanders came, I believe, when their own government sent riot police from Athens to help control crowds in regards to the planned building of a closed camp on Lesvos. Things got uglier, quickly, on the Aegean islands where Humans were trying to find refuge. The dear folks who call these islands home had had it. They felt that the world has deserted them, and I cannot disagree.
Days of work had to be cancelled due to road closures and safety issues as some hooligans were now directing anger at Humanitarian workers. Some NGOs decided to cease operations and evacuated to Athens. We continued as much as we could, and would sometimes be sent home, and asked to stay indoors. My teammates were safe. I felt especially so as my landlords watched over me closely.
I now fully came to understand what mob mentality can do. On a beautiful Sunday I awoke to a text that the road to Moria was being blocked by locals. Turning on Facebook, it appeared other locals were refusing to allow a raft filled with migrants to disembark. Almost at that moment our Founding Director posted this on Facebook; leading from afar:
Having a serious case of cabin-fever I went into Mytillini to have a late lunch/early dinner at my favorite taverna. Finishing up, I received what was becoming a familiar text: “Please go home and stay indoors. Text when you get there.” I let our Coordinator know where I was, and that it may take awhile for me to get home as apparently, the problem of the raft filled with Humans not being allowed to land was in my little hometown. I got home with no issues. But, as soon as I had parked my car and gotten out, crowds of angry guys came marching up my little street, some holding huge sticks. My Landlord’s son asked me to go to my room and stay there. On my way, I could see the angry mob on the main street screaming, and bashing in windshields of Humanitarian Aid workers. (Bless him, the owner of my Car Rental Agency asked me more than once to not drive. That day he asked me to try and remove any visible stickers of his agency.)
To add fuel to an already volatile fire the Turkish government decided to open all borders to allow folks to come through into the EU (Greece) in retaliation for what Turkey deemed unfairness and non-payment of promised money. A man was shot and killed at the Turkish border. On the Greek borders, on the Sea and at the Turkish border were “military exercises with live ammunition.”
A child drowned, and there were films on social media of Coast Guard boats actually trying to hurt more than help Humans in rafts. It literally took my breath away that many of the Folks on these boats were not wearing any life jackets at all, never mind fake ones. What I now realize is that was the beginning of the “Pushbacks.” The Greek government has been denying these, or giving political double-speak excuses, for the validity or such incidents…
On February 21, 2022, per the High Commissioner for Refugees Filippo Grandi
from UNHCR: “We are alarmed by recurrent and consistent reports coming from Greece’s land and sea borders with Turkey, where UNHCR has recorded almost 540 reported incidents of informal returns by Greece since the beginning of 2020. Disturbing incidents are also reported in Central and South-eastern Europe at the borders with EU Member States.
Although many incidents go unreported for various reasons, UNHCR has interviewed thousands of people across Europe who were pushed back and reported a disturbing pattern of threats, intimidation, violence and humiliation. At sea, people report being left adrift in life rafts or sometimes even forced directly into the water, showing a callous lack of regard for human life. At least three people are reported to have died in such incidents since September 2021 in the Aegean Sea, including one in January. Equally horrific practices are frequently reported at land borders, with consistent testimonies of people being stripped and brutally pushed back in harsh weather conditions.”
The positive, and negative, we all had during the two years of the Covid pandemic was more time. For me, personally, that meant many things. One was more time to read the news of the world, especially keeping up with the issue now very dear to my heart, the situation of Humans trying to migrate to safety and create new lives; especially in Greece. The news was not usually uplifting.
In September of 2020, the infamous Moria burned to the ground. That lead to a nightmare of thousands having to camp out on the streets of Lesvos. Within a short amount of time, a new “temporary camp” of big white tents, with a few Isoboxes was built on an old military camp. I drove by that site daily. It is literally on the water, and contaminated with lead. Indeed, the winter rains flooded it often, in the middle of a pandemic. It is now the only living area on Lesvos for our Friends as Kara Tepe was closed in April 2021 (and a smaller camp, Pikpa was shut down in October 2020). The building of a closed camp in an isolated area has been planned for a few years, and is still a major issue Folks on Lesvos are against. (A closed camp opened on the island of Samos in September 2021.)
Pope Frances has visited Lesvos twice since the “Crisis” began in 2015. In 2016, at the original Moria he said: ““You are not alone… do not lose hope.” December, 2021 Pope Francis visited the new Moria (now called Mavrovouni camp, and sometimes the new Kara Tepe). “Five years have passed since I visited this place. After all this time, we see that little has changed with regard to the issue of migration…let us stop thisshipwreck of civilization.” And, that was that. Other Luminaries, celebrities arrive, get the tour, say tsk-tsk, and leave. Is there no wonder the disillusionment of all?
After a closely watched military build up at the Ukranian border, Russia began its “special military operation” upon the orders of Madman Putin, on February 24th. Finally trying to limit myself to the horrors of our world, I of course, kept abreast, but tried not to make my observations 24/7. Part of my reasoning was, in all honesty, it was too painful to watch as EU countries opened their borders, and proverbial arms to the many, many Humans escaping their war-torn country. Of course, I was so very glad these innocents were finding safety. I simply am having a hard time because I know about the Humans that are still dying, often by freezing, on these same borders, as well as other borders all over Europe; not to mention drowning in the waters of the Aegean, Mediterranean and English Channel.
Watching questions being posted from Friends I had made asking why they and their country-persons were ignored, or worse, as they escaped wars as well has been gut-wrenching. A Dear Man whose Family I got to know in 2018 posted on Facebook: “I am not a racist and no the patriot. The war is in any case terrible. Only I wonder if the difference makes between the war in Afghanistan. Yemen. Syria and so on and Ukraine. Does it depend on the skin color, nationality, religion or something else?”
The hypocrisy and cruelty of media and leaders has been breath-taking…Over three million Ukranian Refugees have been welcomed into Europe since Russia invaded; including several thousand in Greece. Greek Migration and Asylum Minister Notis Mitarachi: "They are war refugees, these are real refugees.” Reported in The Greek City Times on February 28thMr Mitarachi was quoted again: “Greece is open to hosting Ukrainian refugees, we consider it our obligation to take part in this humanitarian chain. It should become obligatory for all EU member-states to contribute to the redistribution of the flows from Ukraine. Just as we asked for this when we faced the crisis with Turkey, it is a matter of principle to also say this now, when we must support the countries of Eastern Europe.”
March 1, six Africans drowned off the coast of Lesvos; some of their lifeless bodies washing up on the beach outside the city of Mytillini.
There is increasing backlash to the racist xenophobia, thankfully. “Fiery speech of the European Parliament in criticizing the dual behavior of the West regarding Ukraine and Afghanistan Kalar Dolly, Irish member of the European Parliament: ‘Yes, there is a tragic crisis in Ukraine, but at the same time in Afghanistan... Tens of thousands seek asylum; five million children are starving; child marriages increase by 7 percent; families sell their children to get food, not a word said about it. Omg, Afghans have to wonder what makes their humanitarian crisis so unimportant.’ ” (I also found this on Facebook, postedby a dear Man originally from Afghanistan. I met him in 2017, and worked with him at various times. He has stayed on Lesvos and is re-building his life.)
I received an email from Movement on the Ground March 9th:
“Our team has been at the Ukrainian border for a couple of days, and their first message is one of respect and appreciation for the support local organizations, municipalities and people are providing. With so many people crossing into neighboring countries, locals are giving the warmest welcome they possibly can. At the same time, the sheer number of people that need shelter and support, now and in the long run, is enormous. …
Looking ahead, we unfortunately expect the number of people forced to flee their homes to increase. People seeking safety in Europe because of climate change, conflict, or hunger. At Movement On The Ground we stand for Refugee Hospitality; approaching refugees as people with talents, skills, dreams, and dignifying their reception. We can therefore only applaud the welcoming attitude towards Ukrainian refugees. Let’s continue to adopt this approach for all people on the move, no matter where they are from, nor which border they cross.”
And on March 24th:
“Moldova is the poorest country in Europe and is currently providing shelter for the most refugees per capita ( 12% of the current total population is a Ukrainian refugee*). On top of that, most of the arriving refugees are being hosted by Moldovan families who themselves struggle to make ends meet. While being on the ground, we linked with the local volunteer group, Moldova for Peace, an organization highlighted by the UNHCR and an important player on the ground in Moldova. As the group is also in direct contact with Moldovan authorities, they know the situation best. The group coordinates volunteers, provides transportation, organizes accommodation, and identifies necessary goods and services for those crossing the border. We are organizing support for Moldova for Peace, while they provide Moldovan host families and their Ukrainian guests with much-needed emergency relief items.” (MOTG continues its work in Greece: on Lesvos, Samos, Chios, and in Athens).
As I watched the Celebration of Life Service for one of the greatest heroes of my lifetime, Dr. Paul Farmer, co-founding director of Partners in Health, the words of his Family, Friends, and Colleagues were beautiful, poignant, and powerful; a much-needed salve, actually. One of the phrases;: “Paul Farmer proved that one person can make a difference in the world.” I will, I must, hold onto that.
Thankfully, Ukraine has that person in its President Volodymur Zelenksy. He is that one person at this moment in time as he leads with true grit and grace.
Joan Baez creates a portrait of Zelensky
“A collage in support of the Ukranian people.”
So, no, unfortunately, my Ladies, it’s not fair. But, as hard as it is on some days, I simply refuse to give up on my fervent belief in HOPE. Ultimately, the love and goodness in Humanity will win. Inshallah.
“The act of striving is in itself the only way to keep faith with life.”
Madeleine K. Albright
(First woman Secretary of State for the United States who came to the US as a refugee at the age of 11.)
