Splendid Split

“Let us be grateful to the people who make us happy; they are the charming gardeners who make our souls blossom.” ― Marcel Proust 

I do believe the travel bug has again bitten.   In re-creating my life, I have self-gifted myself many important things for the healing and peace I have been so gratefully achieving.  This year I strived to keep flexibility.  I wanted, I needed, to be available for my Ladies, especially Katie.  And, it has proven to be a wonderful gift indeed. Working crazy hours in Sierre Leone, I have been able to go and “be” with her on the rare occasion she made it home to the U.S.  For a break this summer, we decided to meet and play.  And, oh, did we, in Croatia!

View from our living room in Split

View from our deck in Hvar

Our Dubrovnik home, right on "The Wall"!

Planning the trip also reawakened my love of trip planning and since Katie’s internet can very often be spotty at best, she trusted me to do it.   Funny, I did struggle with uncertainty at times in booking our apartment but went with my gut, and found great places.  I had used Airbnb in the past, but this trip has made me a huge fan.  The People who rent their homes, in my experience, have been great, easy, helpful, and wonderful to work with. Our hosts went out of their way for us.  In Split, even though ill, Ivana and Ante had friends take care of us, arranging transfers to and from the airport, meeting us, and showing us around.  In Hvar, the Micic family were extremely gracious and helpful, picking us up and driving us the short distance to the ferry (such a welcome gift with heavy bags in the heat), arranging boat excursions, etc.  In Dubrovnik, Dubravka and Nikola own a restaurant where we were welcomed with open arms and given a very generous discount!

Leaving on a jet plane from JFK

Flying to Croatia was a long trip, for both of us.  There are no direct flights from the US to Croatia.  For Katie, she must fly through Brussels to get anywhere as flights in and out of Sierre Leone are very restricted.  While researching flights on the internet, many independent companies “pop up” and offer their assistance.  Finding no deals to Croatia, I took one company up on its offer to help.  Mistake, big mistake.  I highly recommend never working with International Travel Network.   Without going into too lengthy a rant, it was a nightmare of mix-ups, getting yelled at and hung up on, but finally, thankfully, the tickets were valid (I was truly afraid I’d get to JFK to find them not so).  Lesson learned, it is quite simple to book my own flights, and will rely on myself from now on.

Will always love Medieval streets

Were the long flights, layovers, and exhaustion ever worth it!  Having arrived in Split hours ahead of me, Katie had a nice lay of the land by the time I arrived late on a Monday night.  Our apartment was perfectly situated right in Dioclesian’s Palace!  We roamed the cobbled streets for awhile having a glass or two of wine, and finding no restaurants serving late, thoroughly enjoyed a ham and cheese baquette from a little shop near our home.

First, of many, great meals

Waking Tuesday to brilliant sunshine and blue skies we happily headed out to simply be in Split.  Sharing a great lunch of my favorite, a caprese salad, octopus salad, and salmon pasta at Bistro No Stress, we then again simply continued our explorations of the magical Medieval streets and harbor area of Split.   After a lovely siesta we ventured over to Marcvs Marvlvs Spalatensis a lovely Library/Jazz Bar set in the 15^th Century home reputed to be the birthplace of Marko Marulic (the Dante Alighieri of Croatia).  Katie had befriended the owner while waiting for me the day before.  Tin is a consummate host who is also a published poet, and, yes, Tin’s place became our Cheers of Split. 

Following our treats of wine and cheese with Tin, we found Diocletian’s Wine House  where we shared an amazing “White Plate of Seafood”.  We quickly learned that indeed, as promised by everything I had read, the wines of Croatia are excellent.  Walking home we found live music being played in the Square right outside the main Palace area.  Simply beautiful. 

Beach #4!

Wednesday found us awaking at noon!  Donning our bathing suits, we shared brunch next door at Bistro Mazgoon.  After filling our bellies very happily with green and caprese salads, rabbit pate, and prosecco, we proceeded to spend the afternoon into early evening beach hopping by simply meandering along the coast.  Oh, the gorgeous warm Adriatic was crystal clear and every shade of blue imaginable.   Dinner was lovely at Adriatic Sushi and Oyster Bar (various rolls as well as salmon and tuna carpaccio) followed by a nightcap at Tin’s  Marcvs Marvlvs Spalatensis.

Krka National Park

Warthogs ahead!?

Snacks @ Krka

Having rented a car to explore a bit, Thursday we headed out after a quick breakfast and took the very long route to get to Krka National Park.  (We got lost).  The ride was worth it for the laughs alone.  The waterfalls, and being able to swim in them after a long, sweaty walk was so worth the wait.  Divine!   Following our frolicking, we happily indulged in a lovely cheese and charcuterie plate (Croatian ham is wonderful, a very special prosciutto) before the much shorter ride home.  Heading out for dinner meant exploring new alleyways to find a restaurant Katie had eyed on previous walks.  We found ourselves in the “Villa Rosa” of Split (a restaurant close to home frequented when the Girls were

Dinner

growing up in).  Our waitress would easily get hired at Durgin Park in Boston (where all people working must be rude and “abusive”) and she made us laugh at loud.  She loved us.  Our dinner at Dioklecijan was exactly what you would expect; good home cooked food.  This time we wanted to try the meats/sausages that Croatia is apparently known for.  And a simple salad, the kind Katie loves, literally just like the ones my Mom makes!  Walking through the palace after dinner had us being entertained by more live music and people dancing in the square, literally.  Especially a young princess whose world was a stage; that night, anyway!   Craving a sweet, we found ourselves back at Bistro Mazgoon where we shared a decadently delicious piece of white chocolate/raspberry cheesecake while savoring a lovely glass of pinot noir, each.  And, yes, finally to Tin’s Marcvs Marvlvs Spalatensis for our nightcap.

Dancing Princess.

Friday, up and out to catch the ferry to Hvar, an island about an hour away from Split.